Day 20 - Turkmenistan

So my hotel in Mary wasn't too bad really. I was a bit worried that I was being a bit prissy early on as I'd encountered a couple of horrors by way of hotels. This one has got all the basics right, bed, hot shower, loo, that's about it but that's all that is required isn't it? It's a little tired looking, a bit grubby but it's fine. I'd be happy with this sort of thing throughout if I could get it. Maybe when I get to a few more hostels, my snobbery will start showing through again.

Went to a local cafe last night and had a proper proper chicken kebab last night. Basically a chicken chopped up into six bits and shoved on a stick. Had to order it in my best Turkmen - which was basically English with a bit of nodding and smiling. It came with bread and some kind of garlicky hot sauce. I honestly didnt know what I was doing, but what I apparently ordered tasted great anyway. It all started to feel rather authentic for me to be honest. It cost 7 Manat, which is something like £1.80.

Today included a trip to Merv. Merv was the centre of Parthian power. I think. I haven't got the internet to check that but my driver said so. I think. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong I'm sure. 

While building an empire out of mud might be cost efficient, it does come with some long term maintenance issues. Very interesting place to wander around though. 

Part of the site included a mausoleum for a Sultan whose name I forget, from a later period. Anyway, I barged in on a crowd of local ladies who were praying. As soon as I stumbled in, they immediately upped and left. I suspect I made some kind of dreadful gender segregation faux pas but no one said anything. So I snapped away. No offence intended.

Finished the day in Turkmenabat. Have camped down in a very smart hotel before making a break for the Uzbekistan border in the morning. Standard phrase of the week has been,'Anglia, da. Nyeto par Ruskie.' Or roughly, 'English, yes. No speak Russian.'

Turkmenistan traffic jam